Years ago the wine grower intended to produce
very clear and fine wines; now there is a trend to cloudy and natural wines.
Earlier such wines were considered to be
faulty: cloudy, a bit oxidized, dry and tannin. Today not more absolute, it
could be a new, ritual ‘Raw wine’. These are beverages where the winegrowers
renounce of everything considered important earlier: precautionary sprayed
vineyards, controlled fermentation, oxidation protection and very fruity. In
case of ‘raw wines’ for the winegrowers intend this wine as an expression of a
special soil considered as a symbol of harmony between humans and nature. These
wines really taste of soil, stone and salt, are lively and develop not only in
the glass but also in the mouth, ideally they would like to tell you a story.
The idea was born in the late seventies by
Nicolas Joly taking the responsibility of the family wine-growing estate at the
Loire ; he decided to refrain from modernity
and to cultivate the vineyards according to the rules of Rudolf Steiner.
Since several years this philosophy is
interesting for native winegrowers, but is performed in different ways.
Examples: mixed sets (Vienna wine: gemischter Satz) – in
order not giving dominance to one special grape or to produce wine according to
the procedure in Georgia 7000 years ago by using amphoras.
In the gourmet-restaurant ‘Traubenkogel’/Austria/Vienna
there is a special wine company with ‘orange wines’. The response of guests is
rather positive, they want to get a new taste which seems to be correlated with
new quality consciousness, but only 5% of these ‘raw wines’ are from Austria
Certainly this more or less new trend has the
potential to support drinking in moderation.
What about the experience in this field of
biological-biodynamical ‘raw wines’ called also ‘anti-authoritarian wines’ in
your country? Maybe this could be a topic for discussion in Vienna too.
See you soon in Vienna
Petra & Achim
(Comment: excerpt partly from Kurier, Monday
October 15 2012)
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